***Important, please read carefully!***
Choosing a wheel builder: A good carbon wheel build requires a professional wheel builder that has experience with carbon wheelset building (opposed to alloy). Remember that “experience” does not qualify someone as a professional wheel builder. There are many wheel builders out there that can produce a decent alloy wheel, and build “by feel” but that is not good enough to create a properly built carbon wheelset. A professional wheel builder will use a tension meter and make sure the spokes are built with a very even tension and are properly stress relieved.
Arrow Sticker: The rims have angled nipple holes that alternate left/right/left. There is an arrow on the center channel, right beside the valve hole, showing the direction. If you are an experienced wheel builder you will notice the key spoke always goes through the 2nd hole in front of the valve, and therefore the angled holes will be in the correct position.
Asymmetric: Some of our rims have an asymmetric profile. You can look at the valve hole and if it is drilled to a different side compared to the nipple holes, this means you have an asymmetric rim. If you have an asymmetric rim, the valve hole must appear closer to the drive side on rear wheels, or closer to the disc side (non-drive) on front wheels.
Nipple Lubrication: Lubricate the nipples with a small amount of oil or grease underneath the nipple head. This will help bring the wheel up to tension easier and will reduce spoke wind-up.
Acceptable Spokes: If you are using round spokes, the heaviest gauge you can use is 2/1.8/2mm. Bladed spokes can also be used. Straight gauge 2mm spokes, however, cannot be used on our rims. They are too stiff for our carbon rims. If used, your warranty will be voided.
Spoke Tension: Bring the spokes to an even tension, with a maximum tolerance 5% for all drive side and all non-drive side. It is best to build between 120 and 130 kg/f on most wheels. During and after building, have the wheel stress relieved properly. If a spoke develops a sharp bend in it while building, please replace the spoke.
Breaking spokes? If you are regularly breaking spokes, check the tension of each spoke with a tension meter that is properly calibrated and adjust the spoke tension as needed. If it is still a problem, the wheel may need to be rebuilt with new nipples that have a more tapered head. This reduces the stress between spoke and nipple. DT Swiss Prolock and Sapim Polyax are the most popular nipples with angular heads. It also helps to occasionally flex the spokes apart with a plastic lever in order to stress relieve them prior to riding. 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes are the most durable size to use with carbon rims.
Will nipples pull through the rims? The highest spoke tension used when building is ~130 kg/f. When testing rims for nipple pull-through, the spokes always break long before the nipple can pull through the rim. The spokes break at about 300 kg/f. If any spoke or nipple fails during building or riding, it is likely the wheel wasn’t built well or there is a quality problem with the spokes or nipples.
Warranty: Light Bicycle’s warranty covers the rims only. It does not cover spokes/nipples/hubs. It only covers wheel building issues if the wheels were built by Light Bicycle.